Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir

 


Experiments in the Vegetarian Kitchen: Green Beans & Pinot Noir

Pairing vegetarian dishes with red wines is often like being dropped at a random lot in Tbilisi (true story).  Wine writers, tasters, and critics always scream, Meat! as the first red drop hits their tongues, leaving me and nearly ten million other vegetarians in the US, with nowhere to turn.  And while I get the bits about tannins and proteins and fat, as a vegetarian, I see no reason to condemn myself to a life of white grape imprisonment.  

As the temperature drops, the contents of my glass evolves from white and pink to red, while I reach for my Russian and Georgian cookbooks, in search of something transitional, that’ll lead me through the change.  And though not oft associated with vegetarian fare, these regions, along with the Mediterranean and Middle East, inspire the meatless meals that set our dining room table throughout the year. 

With Georgia on my mind, I walk through the farmer’s market and stop before a display of green beans--dark in color, glistening, and piled high.  It’s been almost a year since I last cooked “Georgian Green Beans”, a dish that includes cilantro, onions, garlic and eggs, and so I buy a pound or so and take it home. 

Before cooking or uncorking a bottle, I thumb through What to Drink with What you Eat, a brilliant tome by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, curious to see their suggested pairings for green beans and cilantro.  Locating my ingredients, I am not surprised to find only white wines.  And since I have none in my fridge and starving is not an option—nor is dinner without wine—I have to think quick and experiment with what I’ve got.

Georgians traditionally use a lot of walnuts in their dishes, and walnuts, with their oily proteins and bitter finish, tend to pair well with the tannins in red wine.  And so, I turn to Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman, in search of some inspiration and find it in a recipe for a green bean and walnut salad.

Sifting through a lifetime of pairings, I consider the fact that green beans are often served at Thanksgiving, as are sometimes walnuts.  With this in mind, I pull a bottle that had just arrived in the mail (courtesy of the winery itself)—Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2007, because I think it might work, with the wine assuming the role of a mouth-watering enhancer, like Thanksgiving dinner’s cranberry sauce.  Light red fruit, tangy, and slightly sweet—the flavors I expect from a Pinot from Oregon—fruity but not as ripe as one from California, where the warmer climate yields riper grapes and wines with big fruit.

I pop the cork and pour a glass and sure enough, there it is—tart fruit on the nose, red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry; a little earth and spice.  At 14.5% abv, there is a slight burn at the back of the throat, but not the full-on-blaze that I’d expected.  The finish is slightly bitter and astringent, like cranberry sauce, and after a few sips, I bite into a walnut, roll the flavors around my mouth, and…Yes.  The wine’s fruit and acidity tempers the walnut’s bitter finish…but cilantro?  I pull a few leaves from a sprig, take a sip, and tear into the herb with my teeth.  Suddenly two great waves rise in the midst of my kitchen, one cresting cilantro, and the other bright red fruit.  Opposite one another, the waves peak, fall into each other and crash—leaving a sopping wet mess on my floor. 

Cilantro is out.

Snapping a raw bean in two, I sense earth and herbal spice.  Raw, it is not a perfect match with the wine, but perhaps cooking might temper the flavors, or in the end, they might just pair better with an Old World Syrah.  Finally, since garlic=acidity, of which the wine has plenty, the recipe is adapted and I am ready to cook.
 
1/2 cup ground walnuts
2 medium garlic cloves crushed
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound of trimmed green beans, cut in half
1/4 medium-sized red onion, sliced thin
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

--Combine walnuts, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, water, and oil.  Mix thoroughly and let stand for 30 minutes.

--Boil enough salted water to cover the beans when added; then boil for as long as you like, no longer than 7 minutes.  Drain and cool in ice water. Drain and pat dry.

--Toss beans with onion and add the dressing.  Season with salt and pepper, and toss again.

(Adapted from Please to the Table—the Russian Cookbook by Anya von Bremzen and John Welchman.)

Pairing is a two-way street.  One route reflects how the wine affects the food and the other how the food alters, enhances, or neutralizes the wine.  My immediate reaction to this particular pairing is Yes. I love how the Pinot coaxes the acidity of the red wine vinegar from the dish, encouraging the salad to shine, until it’s so full of life that flavors are popping like fireworks in my mouth.  The green bean salad is suddenly illuminated, but in reverse, the walnut dressing coats the tongue, like a pair of shades on a sun-dazzle day.  It somehow reduces the wine’s fruit and acidity, which works if you, like me, are one who prefers your fruit with the volume turned down.  In this particular pairing, the sweet fruit of the wine is transferred to the dish, which establishes a relationship that involves a little sacrifice.  It’s an interesting and fun experiment that anyone with a little time on his or her hands can conduct at home.  It’s a pairing that serves to strengthen my resolve—this commitment to keep searching through ingredients, aromas, textures, and flavors until I find pairings that enhance both vegetarian dishes and red wines.

By: Karen Ulrich

Imbibe New York
 


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Comments

  • I am a lover both of green beans and red wine, yet have been afraid to pair them. Thank you for this adapted recipe. I will definitely try it with an Old World Syrah. As a vegetarian who has found recommendations for food-wine pairings scant, I look forward to your future recommendations. Thanks!

    Sep 26, 2009 at 9:44 PM


  • Snooth User: Philip James
    Founding Member Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    1 12,574

    Karen - great first post. I don't eat too many vegetarian meals, but there are a few - Greek salad, feta and warmed pitta bred is one I have frequently, there's also a Ramen dish with spring onions that I have occasionally, finally a salad with walnuts and blue cheese. Some of my pairing efforts to date have been a little blocky - the walnut and blue cheese particularly, its hard to match a wine to the nuts and cheese that would also not overpower the lettuce

    Sep 27, 2009 at 4:20 PM


  • Thanks! Philip-blue cheese, walnuts, and lettuce--now that's indeed tricky! But you might be in luck regarding feta, as I'm contemplating it as a part of my next post.

    Sep 28, 2009 at 9:17 AM


  • Snooth User: dmcker
    Hand of Snooth
    125836 4,944

    I have found green beans often to pair well with reds. One version is what my grandmother would've called a greenbean casserole, baked with champignons, morels and crisped onions in a creamy sauce mixture. Sometimes I add shiitake as well. Goes just fine with pinot noir and Rhone or Spanish style grenache. Another is greenbeans cooked on the stove with garlic and tomatoes. Chianti, other sangiovese and barolo/barbaresco/nebbiolo have all gone well. And, though I usually have them as a side-dish to fresh or smoked freshwater, some greenbeans with almonds--I've definitely enjoyed them with lighter reds from Chinon and other parts of the Loire, as well as lighter Beaujolais.

    Though definitely a carnivore, I grew up in a farming family in California with an extremely wide range of vegetables on the table. Green beans and their close cousins from China, Peru and elsewhere were a mainstay.

    Philip, try a good semillon with your bluecheese and walnut salad, either dry or off-dry. What kind of dressing are you using?

    Sep 28, 2009 at 6:41 PM


  • Snooth User: fatmo
    255988 3

    Phillip, could I suggest a punchy Torrontes from Argentina for your Blue Cheese and Walnut pairing. I am assuming you are using a more pungent Blue in this instance. If it is a softer blue with less salt then I would be inclined towards a slightly sweeter wine like a Muscat from the south of France. Chateau d'Exindre Vent d'Anges.

    Sep 29, 2009 at 4:20 AM


  • Snooth User: Gregory Dal Piaz
    Hand of Snooth Voice of Snooth
    89065 238,750

    Ok maybe a strange pairing but I do eat alot of green beans so the problem has presented itself quite frequently. Among my favorite matches? Cabernet Franc and I am not a particularity big Cab Franc fan.

    Also good have been Schiava, Red Txacoli, and Aleatico. Many lighter styled reds from Trentino, Alto-Adige and Friuli have worked well too.

    Sep 29, 2009 at 10:40 AM


  • Thanks for all the shared suggestions and thoughts!

    I love strange--it's the smoking gun of life!

    Often when in the kitchen on a weeknight, we haven't all the wines of the world on hand, and so we have to improvise (or at least I do).
    And so, the Tuesday night journey ends up being just as lively as the destination itself.

    Thanks again and
    cheers!

    Sep 29, 2009 at 2:38 PM


  • Snooth User: Waltswine
    974392 0

    I recommend the '08 Refosco - Boeger Winery, Placerville CA for green beans, esp. if the beans are prepared with marinara.

    Nov 16, 2011 at 11:55 AM


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