For just a moment, let's not talk about what we're supposed to eat. Let's just give it up for what we want to eat, here at the end of summer, late on a Friday afternoon. Let's talk about hand cut fries and homemade cornbread, patty melts with caramelized onions. Applewood bacon, whipped goat cheese. Mayo infused with just about everything.

If you would presently give the world for a farmhouse burger or a toasted marshmallow shake, ignore the voice telling you to get a salad. Let he among us without a hankering for comfort food ... shut up and let the rest of us eat.

Spike Mendelsohn's ode to burgers and bar food makes a couple of nods to fresh greens and light fare (a poached egg and frisee salad here, a pear, pistachio, and brie wedge there). The pictures of these dishes are lovely to look at as you skim to find the real goods: The smokehouse burger, the pork and pancetta burger with smoked mozzarella, a bananas foster shake complete with dark rum.