On Chasing Truffles
Where to go or how to cook those stinky little gems
While I find pasta allows for one of the purest interpretations of truffle essence, risotto help give it some heft, figuratively and literally. It also make truffles easier to pair with wine. Often, wines served with that rich pasta dish can end up feeling pretty thin, and a wine rich enough to parry the food can often overwhelm the nuance of truffles. Risotto changes the dynamic and invites a whole host of wines to help showcase the earthy truffle.
Earthy wines have that natural bridge flavor bridge with the truffle, a real affinity. Some even veer off into the mushroomy and truflly end ofthe spectrum but these wines may not be for everyone. To a large extent it’s a question of age. Great Chianti, Rioja, and of course Nebbiolo pair particularly well with truffles and risotto particular. Generally, the older the bottling the less fruit and more earth and even mushroom you’ll find in the glass. I find a nice balance in wines that range from about ten to twenty of age.